Our Synscape™ range Artificial Grass carries a warranty of 8 Years. No exceptions. That's our confidence in our Synscape™ artificial Grass product range.
No Lead is contained in our Artificial Grass products. Our Artificial Grass is 100% environmentally friendly and save for children to enjoy themselves all year.
Shaped yarn does reduce the maintenance aspect, as the Artificial Grass will NOT flatten that quick. Our Prestige now comes with a S-shape.
All our Artificial Grass products is stitched with a Double Mesh Backing, making our range the most durable Artificial Grass currently in South Africa.
Construction of a 5-A-Side Soccer pitch with a 40mm infill-type Synthetic Sports Turf.
A solid Drainage base constructed and stabilized for good drainage purposes.
Final stages. Pitch is infilled with silica sand and rubber granule
Should you decide on a DIY project or NOT, to have some idea as to what needs to be done correctly during an installation process, you can save a lot of money and headaches. Every installer has his own way of installing Artificial grass, but it’s not to say that it will be a proper installation that will last you a long time without hassles.
Artificial Grass CANNOT and SHOULD not be installed on pure soil. Directly after a rain shower the mud underneath the artificial grass will be soppy and will push through the drainage holes of the grass. This will leave your grass full of mud spots and will be very difficult to clean.
Always make sure a proper drainage base is constructed before the artificial grass is installed. An unwashed crusher is the best material to use for a drainage base, and please NO CEMENT should be mixed with it.
Please don’t use river sand, as it WILL move around as you walk on the grass and most like will gather at one corner over time with heavy rains.
It’s almost certain that your Synthetic Grass installation will have joints. It’s also right at the joints where everything goes sour and ugly very quickly if not done properly. Artificial grass should never be joint using the backing. It will NOT last and will be expensive to fix once the installation is done. Always make sure your installer nake use of proper jointing tape on all the joints. Never use Genchem glue on your joints, and it does not matter if it says “For Artificial Grass” on the tin. It will bite you…fact! Use a proper two-part poxy glue on all joints, and one more thing:- The glue should always stay flexible even when dry. If the glue becomes unbendable, you can be sure that you will get bubbles on your Artificial Grass installation and worse of all, most of the time these bubbles appear right on the joint. Very costly to fix as the complete joint have to be re-done, by cutting out the bubble and old glue, and most of the time the two pieces do not align 100% again.
Never use nails to secure your grass. The nails will start to rust, lift from the installation and pose a huge risk for injury to your animals and kids.
Lastly, make sure your Artificial grass is installed facing the same direction, and avoid a patchy installation.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
Should you decide on a DIY project or NOT, to have some idea as to what needs to be done correctly during an installation process, you can save a lot of money and headaches. Every installer has his own way of installing Artificial grass, but it’s not to say that it will be a proper installation that will last you a long time without hassles.
Artificial Grass CANNOT and SHOULD not be installed on pure soil. Directly after a rain shower the mud underneath the artificial grass will be soppy and will push through the drainage holes of the grass. This will leave your grass full of mud spots and will be very difficult to clean.
Always make sure a proper drainage base is constructed before the artificial grass is installed. An unwashed crusher is the best material to use for a drainage base, and please NO CEMENT should be mixed with it.
Please don’t use river sand, as it WILL move around as you walk on the grass and most like will gather at one corner over time with heavy rains.
It’s almost certain that your Synthetic Grass installation will have joints. It’s also right at the joints where everything goes sour and ugly very quickly if not done properly. Artificial grass should never be joint using the backing. It will NOT last and will be expensive to fix once the installation is done. Always make sure your installer nake use of proper jointing tape on all the joints. Never use Genchem glue on your joints, and it does not matter if it says “For Artificial Grass” on the tin. It will bite you…fact! Use a proper two-part poxy glue on all joints, and one more thing:- The glue should always stay flexible even when dry. If the glue becomes unbendable, you can be sure that you will get bubbles on your Artificial Grass installation and worse of all, most of the time these bubbles appear right on the joint. Very costly to fix as the complete joint have to be re-done, by cutting out the bubble and old glue, and most of the time the two pieces do not align 100% again.
Never use nails to secure your grass. The nails will start to rust, lift from the installation and pose a huge risk for injury to your animals and kids.
Lastly, make sure your Artificial grass is installed facing the same direction, and avoid a patchy installation.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
• A soft, safe and clean playing surface for children
• User-friendly playground: no puddles, quick-drying
• Safe playground: breaking falls, no slippery conditions
• Minimum of maintenance
• Economic investment compared to other alternatives, such as rubber tiles
• Environmentally safe solution
• Long life span
• Available all year long for kids to enjoy
• Dries very quick and ready for kid activities
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
Playgrounds at nursery schools and primary schools (Grade R’s) are used intensively,
especially when the playgrounds are provided with ‘challenging’ playing equipment like jungle gyms, slides, swings, etc.
Natural grass won’t survive in these heavy traffic circumstances.
Besides being able to withstand intensive use and its long life span, another advantage of artificial grass for playgrounds is that children also stay reasonably clean when they play on it.
They can have fun rolling and crawling around without getting mud or grass stains.
Turfscape offers 4 excellent synthetic grass types as alternatives here.
First alternative:- Syn40/50/60
Syn40 is our soccer/football grass and is the primary choice for playgrounds.
The 40/50/60 refers to the length of the fibers. The grass is in-filled with a layer of clean washed silica sand and a layer of rubber granules.
The sand acts as a protection for the grass and keeps the fibers upright, while the rubber granules provide the shock absorbency effect to the synthetic grass.
The grass is specially made to have a slide effect, thus no grass burn will occur if a child falls and slide on the grass.
A proper playground surface is one of the most important factors in reducing injuries – and the severity of injuries – that occur when kids fall from climbing equipment.
You want a playground surface where parents can put their minds at ease about letting your children play on the climbing equipment. The Syn40/50/60 grass should be used if the playing equipment (jungle gyms) is very high like the types build with wooden poles.
Its recommended to have a Syn50/60 installed directly underneath the equipment, and the outer areas can be covered with Syn40. After a rain shower, artificial grass also quickly dries up again.
Second alternative:- Synscape 35(Lux)
Our Synscape Lux synthetic grass is primarily used for gardens but is an excellent choice when your jungle gym equipment is of the painted pole type.
Its fibers are long, have a curly double-stitched yarn that acts as the infill.
Because of the curly infill yarn, it does not require sand and rubber infill material.
The grass is very soft to touch, and really feels and looks very natural like real Kikuyu grass.
One very important thing to remember, NEVER install synthetic playground grass on a concrete slap, cement or paving.
It completely defeats its purpose. Make sure your synthetic grass is installed on a well-designed drainage base system.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
Artificial grass is pet-proof and very pet-friendly. Really?
That’s what everybody will tell you? Seriously?
Do you have dogs? No problem at all. Pets just love artificial grass, and will not destroy or rip it apart.
In fact, they find it so cosey in wintertime, because of the heat and it will become their spot to relax in the winter sun.
So, if that is what is meant by pet-friendly grass, then YES!!! it’s true.
BUT, if you think of pet-friendly grass as in the dog can pee/poo on it as on normal Kikuyu grass, you in for a BIGGGG surprise.
The BIGGER the dog, the BIGGER the bladder, the BIGGER the problem.
The ONLY pet-friendly grass in South Africa is our Petscape. Why? There is a huge difference in the type of backing that is used.
Have a look at our product range, and familiarize yourself with the difference of backing types.
You WILL regret laying normal artificial grass in your garden if you do have dogs, guaranteed, within a month.
So Don’t believe that story again for one moment.
Dogs need to eat real grass for their metabolism. So yes they will try to eat the synthetic grass, but they learn quick.
Dogs need a place to bury their personal belongings, ye, sometimes the owner’s. So they need a place to dig.
If you cover all your yard with synthetic grass, you might have a problem, but then again, dogs learn quickly.
Regular cleaning after your dog is a constant, never-ending job. If you do have sprayers, keep them working
An Installer worth his money will be able to work around the sprayers, and keep them functional at all times.
Use the sprayers as normal, skip a day or two, and you will soon notice it. Visually and non-visually( through your nose).
That’s why a good, well-constructed drainage base is imperative underneath the Artificial Grass (Petscape) to absorb the continuous watering/cleaning process.
If it does start to smell, then the old story of vinegar and water does work to an extent, but it’s going to be repeated for a couple of days.
A dilution of normal pine gel mixed with water, leave it for an hour, and then rinse it well, does do the trick.
Do not just trust all these so-called “Artificial Grass Dog cleaning mysteriously vanishing products” that are becoming very popular on the market. We have tested several products, and it DOES NOT WORK.
I do not say DON’T TRY IT, All I’m saying is it does not work for my dog!!!
It could work for your dog
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
Artificial grass is the perfect cover for that boring concrete on your balcony or patio.
It’s very easy to turn your balcony or patio into a beautiful, relaxed, attractive ambiance with Turfscape’s Synscape range of synthetic grass.
Our synthetic grass is most suitable for decking too, and it will offer you satisfaction for many years to come.
The surface of a balcony is mostly flat (concrete or other hard surfacing covered with water sealant material),
so the installation of artificial grass is very simple.
On the concrete, it can just be glued down on the edges.
When you have a water sealant installed, the synthetic grass can still be glued down, but use chemical-based epoxy glue.
We prefer not to glue the grass down onto the waterproofing, as it will destroy your grass should you need repairs to the waterproof.
It is important that you consider the slope of your balcony or patio and the water drainage is good.
Most balconies are constructed in a way to allow water drainage to run-off.
It is not good for the synthetic grass when the bottom remains wet all the time.
Our synthetic grass is perfect for a wooden decking. Just make sure the joints between the boards is small enough,
if not it can be covered with wooden dowels in order to avoid visibility deck pattern on the top of the synthetic grass.
Also keep in mind that the wood deck under the artificial grass will take a lot longer to dry, so the water drainage and air ventilation must be perfect.
Potted plants and garden furniture will enhance these tranquil areas.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
It is possible to enjoy an attractive, luxurious artificial lawn for many years with a minimum of maintenance. Some cleaning tips:
• Washing. Remove leaves, weeds and other debris immediately by means of a blower. It is important to keep artificial grass clean at all times. Plain water from the hose to rinse your grass on a regular base, if it is not raining, is perfect.
• Brushing. Synthetic grass fibers tend to lay flat after usage. Periodically brushing the fibers with a hard bristle broom will remedy this. Brushing should be done against the grain of the fibers.
• Blowing. Keep the artificial turf clean using a normal leaf blower or brush. If you did invest in a large area of artificial lawn, it’s worth investing in a brush machine.
If your synthetic lawn is the “infill type” (sand and/or rubber), and you do use a blower, do not blow directly into the synthetic lawn fibers as all the infill will blow away. Blow with an angle on the artificial grass.
• Weed control. By keeping the artificial lawn clean will prevent weed growth between the fibers.
Weeds can be easily removed by plucking, brushing or raking the grass.
Make sure weeds are removed before they can take root, especially along the edges of the turf.
A number of environmentally friendly products can be purchased at home improvement centers and garden centers that kill algae, moss, and weeds directly.
If the instructions are followed carefully, the artificial lawn will not suffer any damage.
• Chemicals. Do not use any chemicals directly on your artificial grass. Household dishwashing liquid can be used if needed.
Rarely should it be necessary to make use of soap, as water will be more than adequate to clean your synthetic lawn.
Damages to artificial grass can be repaired. The damaged piece of artificial turf is cut out and replaced by a new piece.
It is therefore advisable to save any remnants of your synthetic grass left over after the installation.
These can be used for any repairs.
Just be aware of the fact that used artificial grass will look differently than new grass, even when it is the same product. A repair usually remains visible for a while. Over time, this difference in color will be less and less visible.
Synthetic Grass is NOT pet-friendly as most of the installers and suppliers claim to be. Not even specially made Pet-Friendly Artificial grass with a pet-friendly backing. You NEED to and MUST keep the Artificial Grass clean, control the stink on a regular basis and keep the Artificial grass hygienically clean for you to enjoy. Remember this:- The Bigger the Dog the Bigger the Bladder the Bigger the Problem.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
Artificial grass is NOT something that fell from heaven, and will instantly solve all your problems.
Apart from the fact that Artificial grass is expensive, other disadvantages are that artificial grass is much warmer in the summer heat than natural grass.
Yes, it does get very hot!!! In the middle of Summer, it does get AFRIKAANS Hot
This is due to the fact that artificial grass does not Photosynthesis as normal Kikuyu grass thus does not have an auto cooldown process
It’s also a bit darker than natural grass, which lends itself to attract the sun more.
A visual disadvantage of artificial grass is the fact that it does not change color along with the seasons.
This disadvantage is now 60% eliminated by choosing a grass with brown yarn in it, making it much more realistic looking. Please do NOT believe the prevarication about putting sand in the grass will keep it much cooler.
Artificial grass may be low maintenance but certainly not entirely maintenance-free, as is often believed or proclaimed.
Long-term use also subjects the artificial grass to normal wear and tear which lead to the synthetic grass flattening
and therefore should be brushed up on a regular base, even much more so with flat blade yarn types.
The frequency of brushing depends on how intensely the turf is used. and could be part of your normal maintenance routines.
The biggest disadvantage and/or aspect that is often overseen or not talked about, is the fact that artificial grass requires a professional installation.
Very often an unprofessional installation (certainly when it comes to large surface areas) often leads to unsatisfying results.
Remember, In the long term, a professional installation pays for itself, also in terms of the pleasure derived from the use and the durability of the synthetic grass.
Synthetic Grass is NOT pet-friendly as most of the installers and suppliers claim to be. Not even specially made Pet-Friendly Artificial grass with a pet-friendly backing. You NEED to and MUST keep the Artificial Grass clean, control the stink on a regular basis and keep the Artificial grass hygienically clean for you to enjoy. Remember this:- The Bigger the Dog the Bigger the Bladder the Bigger the Problem.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
The main reasons why most people choose artificial turf include low maintenance, high functionality, and aesthetic or decorative value
Other benefits or advantages are:-
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
The newest generation of synthetic grass is soft, comfortable and appears naturally real.
Artificial grass can be the perfect cover for that boring concrete on your balcony or patio.
It’s very easy to turn your balcony or patio into a beautiful, relaxed, attractive ambiance with Turfscape’s range of synthetic grass.
You can enjoy your garden every single day of the year with an artificial lawn because the newest ranges of artificial grass have become a beautiful and practical alternative for gardens.
This durable, unique artificial grass carpet requires very little maintenance and is a stylish solution for any garden.
The most important thing to remember when installing Synthetic grass in your garden is that artificial grass requires a different sub-base and ground preparation than natural grass.
You should NEVER lay Synthetic grass directly on top of your soil.
Prepare a proper drainage sub base before installation.
This will ensure you enjoy your Synthetic grass for many years to come.
Artificial Grass can be installed on top of paving, just remember, with a short pile height, the paving pattern will start to show on the grass after a while.
Use a longer pile height, and do regular maintenance i.e. brushing it up, will prevent the pattern showing on your grass.
On a rooftop, very important to remember that you should never use a solvent base glue, as it will damage your rubber waterproofing.
Always use a chemical base glue.
I have also NeVeR met a builder who’s waterproofing does not give a problem sometimes,
and then the grass needs to be cut loose.
SO!!! Just spot glue the grass, and use benches, flower pots or whatever to hold the grass down.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
When deciding on a Synthetic grass installation project, the first thing to think about is long term investment.
The grass should last you a very long time.
It is an expensive exercise, even more so if you cannot DIY your project.
BUT… you don’t have to pay extraordinary prices for Synthetic grass.
Do consider cheaper artificial grass that is imported, because the quality, textures, and aesthetics of the grass have dramatically changed the past couple of years.
We at Turfscape can offer you not only locally made products but also imported, high-quality Synthetic grass that carries a 5-year warranty.
Have a look at our product ranges AND ask for samples.
Depending on the intended use, there are several options at various price ranges from which to choose from.
If an aesthetic value is of lesser importance, choose a budget-friendly alternative.
An important thing to look at when choosing Artificial grass is to ask for samples and feel the grass texture with your feet and make the correct choice of Artificial grass for your specific project. i.e. Nursery schools should definitely consider an Artificial grass product for their playgrounds with a 35mm pile height or more, BUT NOT LESS than 35mm for playgrounds with jungle gyms.
You should base your decision on the nature of the usage, as well as your personal preferences in terms of color combinations and softness and naturally budget.
Whichever type of synthetic grass is most suitable depends on the location and intensity of expected use, i.e. high traffic volumes,
go for more robust, shorter pile height, just aesthetics purposes,
go for midrange pile height, garden, pool areas, go for a longer, softer pile height, etc.
Don’t take the first synthetic grass sample shown to you.
A good idea is to get samples of the grass types you’re interested in, and then base your decision on what you see and feel.
Remember, this should be a long term investment decision, and there is a big difference between synthetic grass, and fake grass.
Always compare prices of Artificial grass products by the pile height and density of the grass.
If you were quoted on a 30mm or 35mm, make sure your comparison quotes is also based on the same pile height or better.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
In problematic areas where grass just does not want to grow, i.e. shady areas,
general playgrounds where too many feet (intensive use) prevent the grass from growing, or perhaps in areas where maintenance is problematic.
Any other area where you have to incur the expense or hassles of period replanting natural grass.
At first, it is an expensive exercise, but artificial turf is a smarter investment then chemically enhanced grass.
Artificial turf requires less maintenance and is much more durable and sustainable than normal Kikuyu grass. Artificial turf is also an excellent alternative to the pavement (cobblestones, concrete, asphalt, etc.)
in terms of both functionality and price.
Nowadays, many complex’s is just paving, paving and paving, with a little/none/very small piece of grass.
Remember, Artificial Grass can be installed on top of paving, to make an area more human-friendly.
After all, a piece of lawn is also beautiful, emotional, like a pool, and it has emotional value, both to humans and pets.
It makes a garden look beautiful and serene.
We just can’t ignore the aesthetic value of synthetic turf.
It is now available in an array of blade lengths and textures (including variegated strands), the new generation of synthetic grass
can fool most, as it looks so natural real.
Nursery schools should definitely consider an Artificial grass product for their playgrounds.
Remember, 35mm pile height or more, BUT NOT LESS than 35mm for playgrounds with jungle gyms.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
There are more names for this product than any other product that I know of.
It’s ridiculous all the names people have for Synthetic grass. Synthetic Grass, Synthetic Turf, Synthetic Lawn, Artificial Grass, Artificial Lawn, Artificial Turf, Fake Grass, Plastic Grass and probably a lot more that can be mentioned.
Synthetic grass or artificial grass is a machine-made surface manufactured from synthetic materials
e.g. Polypropylene or Polyethylene.
In previous years, it was mostly used in arenas for sports that were originally played on grass, however, since the late 1990s,
uses of synthetic grass have moved rapidly beyond Soccer to Cricket to Golf to Residential and Landscaping applications.
The most common type uses Polypropylene which is tufted to the applicable length, lubricated with silicone onto a rubberized base.
The grass once installed are then top dressed with silica sand which keeps the fibers upright and provides the right level of speed- and bounce height of the ball and prevents de-formability.
The latest additions to synthetic grass are longer fiber grasses that are infilled with combinations of sand and rubber granules.
The infill materials provide the right level of shock absorbency and are soft to the touch. It is specially manufactured for
sports i.e. Soccer, Playground areas, Garden and Driving Mats for golf purposes. There are now also longer fiber grass available which requires no infill.
Applications for these grasses are gardens, exhibitions, recreational areas, etc. The quality and variety of synthetic grasses that are available have improved dramatically as the need for the grass expands daily.
Residential properties have become smaller and the tendency of cluster home-style suburbs, labor & machinery costs,
limited spending time on garden maintenance, all contribute to the increasing interest in synthetic grass as an alternative. The artificial grass of today looks very real!
Its a safe investment for many years, has many benefits and is easy to clean, requires little care and can be installed anywhere.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship and leadership,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship and leadership.”
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
Let’s face it, every golf enthusiast wants his own putting green at
home, Backyard, Front yard, Courtyard, Pool Deck, Balcony or Patio, it doesn’t matter where you want to have this putting green, there are various design considerations that have to be taken into account.
It’s not always possible to follow each and every guide, but the more you give this thought,
the bigger the pleasurable experience you will get from your newly design putting green.
The construction of a real “bent grass” / “Golf green grass” is not always technically the correct/preferred option, as these putting greens are very heavily maintenance intensive, and does require various equipment to execute the maintenance procedures and winter treatments.
Below are some of the crucial thoughts that should be considered when deciding on constructing an Artificial Grass Putting green.
The first thought that should come to mind when thinking of constructing an Artificial Grass putting green on your premises, is long term investment. Remember, the next homeowner might not be a golfer.
Thus, the artificial putting green should be aesthetically incorporated into your yard as part of a feature,
and should also be functional and easy access for general enjoyment.
It’s very common for homeowners and installers alike, to lost their way, unable to settle on a point of view that defines the aesthetic value of the end product. To get the full benefit from your investment, make sure you find the correct balance between Aesthetic and Functional value during the design phase.
A good starting point during the design phase is to see what existing structures, trees, shrubs, stones etc, can be utilized and incorporated into your design.
Don’t design around it, design with it, make it part of the design.
Another common misconception by most “home putting green owners”, is to get confused between putting and short game concepts, as the next general thought is “I want to pitch into the green”.
The worst of all is that most of these so-called “Synthetic grass suppliers” and/or “Synthetic Putting Green Builders” will fuel this misconception for a sale.
Reason Why Not:-
Ye-Ye-Ye! You can chip onto a correct designed synthetic grass putting green, and that’s about as far as it can go. (On a large putting green).
A real putting green’s surface is firm, soft and almost always moist-to-wet to assist with a soft landing, therefore the divots.
The actual size and shape of your putting green design should complement your decision between Aesthetic or Functional.
Aesthetic: The shape aspect is should be a more prominent feature. Always use every possible fixed and/or manmade fixtures and/or features to enhance this aspect. Remember, it’s easy to overdo this and could be very costly as it depends on what feature options you take.
Functional: The shape and size should be equally important and a fine balance between the two will definitely make your putting green stand out.
So, it does not matter what weight functional or Aesthetic carries, What is important is to keep the following in mind during the design phase:-
Shape: Artificial Grass rolls are square by nature, and what you cut from the roll is for your budget. Thus, shape your putting green, but keep shaping to a minimum to have maximum putting surface available.
It will not only contribute to the fact that you will be able to make/design longer putts, but a better undulation design and more cups positions can be fitted on your artificial putting green.
Size:- It is a privilege to have a bigger putting green which allows you to cater for fringes from where you can pitch off onto your putting green.
Important to keep in mind that both these factors, Shape and Size, will directly influence your overall project budget.
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
We at Turfscape strongly believe there must be a delicate balance between, “We must prove ourselves again and again through our workmanship,”—yet at the same time, says, “We are confident that we can prove ourselves again and again with our workmanship.”
Correct maintenance procedures is fundamental to successful cricket pitch preparation.
The following factors, other than using the correct bulli/clay composition,
directly influence the performance of cricket pitch:
Vertical cracks develop as the pitch dries. A pitch should never dry out to the extent that the vertical cracks that do develop, extend right through the bulli.
Deep drying should rather be accomplished by a well-developed root system so that the water can be extracted from the lower layers by root uptake and active grass leaves for transpiration through the leaf system.
Fine water applications over shorter periods, more frequently, is advisable to increase water penetration up to a depth of at least 100mm as water infiltration of clay is very slow at a rate of 2-3mm per hour.
It is important that no puddles of water should ever be allowed to form on the surface. Pitches should be constructed with a fall between 1 – 2 %, stump to stump so that Excess water should run off the pitch surface.
In normal conditions, grass plants should have enough leaves to produce sufficient sugars.
For the plant to grow strong and vigorous, enough light must penetrate the soil surface so that new stems can develop.
Mowing must be frequent and no more than 30% of the leaf materials must ever be cut off by a single mowing operation.
The mowing height and frequency should be varied during the growing season. Thatch built up must be avoided at all costs.
It slows the pace of the pitch. Dead leaf material should be removed regularly by verti-cutting.
Care must be taken that dead leaf material does not penetrate the cracks in the pitch profile which can add to pitch layering and prevent the bulli from binding.
Bounce and Pace are reduced by horizontal layering in a pitch.
Layering also causes shallow root development which results in uneven moisture distribution.
Layering is caused by adding or accumulated organic material in the pitch profile, by using clay with different swell/shrinkage characteristics and by using a vibrating roller which is forbidden for usage on a cricket pitch.
Greater compaction leads to higher bounce and pace.
A roller of appropriate weight should be used when the bulli has reached the appropriate moisture content.
The pitch must be rolled regularly as the pitch dries out. A heavier roller should be used as the rolling proceeds.
The first light roller seal off the surface and the heavier roller compacts the deeper layers of the pitch.
Never used a vibrating roller as it causes horizontal layering.
Foot holes made by bowlers and batsmen and bare patches should be attended to.
Lightly sweeping, hollow tining, top dressing with adequate resting should result into the recovery of the grass stems.
If the damages to these areas are too serious, it should be replanted with new grass.
Bulli must be excavated to a depth of 50mm, filled with new bulli and replanted with washed grass sods.
Bare patches caused by a fungal infection should be treated immediately.
If the grass does not recover within 3 weeks of treatment, it should be replanted.
It is feasible to have a soil test done to determine the fertility shortages in the pitch profile and then to take corrective measures.
However, in the absence of the tests, Nitrogen at a rate of at least 6g per m2(20g/ms LAN) every 20 days and potassium 10g/m2 every 20(20g/m2 kcl) can be alternated during the growing season (middle of August to middle April) to the pitch.
Invasion of the outfield grass or weeds into the pitch area should be prevented at all costs.
Appropriate weed killers should be applied to kill off such invasions.
Cricket pitches should not be left unattended during the winter season.
The pitches should be thinned out (verticut), hollow tined (compaction braking), fertilized and top dress with a high quality weed-free bulli.
Synthetic cricket practice areas provide an essential all weather resource for cricket players to
give them the best opportunity to develop and exhibit their skills.
We can construct these facilities in the comfort of your backyard with our very durable Artificial Grass (Oval) to any specification, but here are some general
rules that need to be taken into account when planning these facilities:-
Where possible the facility should be sited in a north-south direction to avoid batting or bowling into the setting sun.
Avoid constructing your pitch in close proximity to trees, as the shadows in sunny conditions make the ball very difficult to see.
Buildings also create shadows and influence wind currents which may have an effect on the playability of the facility.
Base constructions:-
We make use of two methods for our base constructions.
Constructing a reinforced concrete slab, usually 2m wide, 100mm thick.
The top of the concrete slab must be very smooth to prevent erratic ball bounce.
The slab is normally left for 7-10 days to cure before the preferred synthetic grass or fiber grass is installed.
The second method is the construction of a crusher sand base which is stabilized to prevent disintegration or crumbling.
The crusher base has very near characteristics to a turf pitch as it provides a solid enough base without the unexpected ball bounce that is caused by concrete bases.
The ball does tend to come through very evenly without the bounciness of that of concrete base.
The bowlers also have much better ball control on a crusher base both in bounce and grip (spin bowling).
The edges are normally neatly covered with paving.
Turfscape provides three different artificial grass options for synthetic cricket pitches:-
Oval
The Oval Synthetic grass must be in filled with fine white silica sand, to control the speed of the ball coming onto the bat.
The amount of sand infill determines the pace and bounce of the ball. The sand is evenly distributed across the surface then brushed into the fibers (becoming invisible to the eye), but more sand needs to be brushed in at the crease where the batsman taps with his bat.
The grass is only glued on the perimeters and only if installed on a concrete slab.
On a crusher base, the grass is only secured on the top and bottom of the pitch, by folding the edges into the ground and secure it with long pegs. These pegs are then covered with sand and are invisible to the eye.
The grass is perfect not only for the batsman but also for the bowlers.
The bowler can control the swing of the ball much more efficient than on fiber grass.
For spin bowling, the Oval really offers a lot more grip on the ball than the fiber grass.
Fiber Grass 173
The Fiber Grass 173 (1964 – method) cannot be installed on a crusher base, thus a cement slab is needed.
The Fiber Grass must be completely glued, (complete surface), then rolled and rolled and rolled until all/no air bubbles are visible.
The disadvantage of fiber grass is where the ball is landing on the grass, it tends to make black skeet marks which do not give the ball any grip after a short while.
Wicket (crease) lines are normally painted on with road paint that should last a season.
These practise facilities can be constructed to any number of pitches and to varying lengths of between 10 – 22 meters.
It is important to choose a bulli source which gives good ball bounce and pace in cricket pitches.
That’s why we only use the highest quality bulli / clay for pitch construction and sold for seasonal maintenance to all clubs and schools.
Make sure of your bulli source, and do not use “dirty bulli”, clay with too much organic matter, as this will give you endless weed problems later during your season. (Clay taken from river edge, and is sold as bulli)
There is another myth that you cannot use another bulli source if your pitch was built with a certain source.
This myth is directly related to customer control and it could affect you negatively money wise.
The main properties that groundsmen should look for when choosing bulli are:
It is important that water can pass or leach through the bulli to the bottom of your pitch, and probably to the drainage systems.
This leaching process facilitates the removal of undesirable substances such as Sodium and other salts that are delivered via the irrigation system.
Permeability is also important because it allows water to the lower soil depths to reach deep grassroots and provide a healthy binding turf.
During rolling, water has to make its way to the surface to evaporate and produce the drying and hardening process that results in a wicket surface with that elusive “bounce” quality.
The clay content requirement varies between 50% – 70%; Remember that the higher the clay content, the harder the wicket will be to manage and the harder the surface it can produce.
Conversely, the larger the percentage of silt, the more quickly the wicket will break and powder.
The % clay content directly influences the following two characteristics of the bulli:- Cracking & Shrinking
Higher clay content could cause wide cracks in the pitch.
The grass on the perimeter of these cracks grows very well but insufficient air and water will reach the roots which will result in poor growth.
Organic material can also fall into these cracks causing a soft pitch with poor ball bounce.
Too wide cracks is also dangerous to the batsman as the ball may hit the edges of the cracks and deviate in all directions.
Smaller cracks stimulate grass growth as water and air penetrate easier to the roots.
Essentially these cracks allow for water to quickly wet the whole pitch, which is needed for good pitch preparation.
Low clay content will result in too little or no cracks at all with very little water penetration and results in shallow root development.
Linear shrinkage should be between 0.08 – 0.15, type of clay 2:1 swell/shrink clay.
Clay swell and shrink as the water content changes due to a clay compound
called montmorillonite that contributes significantly to the expansion and contraction properties of Bulli.
Shrinkage cause cracks in the pitches.
Excessive shrinkage will result in too wide and large cracks.
Less than 5% organic matter should be present in bulli.
Too much organic matter will cause the pitch to become spongy with poor ball bounce.
Defined as a slow pitch. Fine sand : 20 – 50% & Coarse sand: 0-10%:
Too much sand content in clay, do provide grip to the ball and can damage the ball.
It also prevent sufficient compaction of the pitch.
The pitch will also deteriorate more quicker than required.
USING LOW GRADE BULLI (Dirty (River) Bulli): It is recommended that you only use bulli tested and used by credible clubs and
schools for maintenance purposes such as top dressing material for your pitches.
It should have a good clay content, shrinkage and cracking characteristics.
If the bulli has a very low clay content, it will not bind together and will not swell and shrink at a correct rate.
This will cause layering in the pitch which result in low and uneven bounce.
Core hollowtining could relieve the layering effects but pitch re-construction can in cases with serious layering problems be the only means of correcting the problem.